Good work by KKIMI. The boat was ready on time, even though the hitlist was long and it continued to evolve during the
job. There was good communication during the job. KKMI remains very expensive and my only other observation is that
there were, again, annoying incidents related to cleaning up after projects.
KEWA @ KKMI -- 2007 09 04
1. Rudder area leaks
Small streams/puddles of salty water appear in aft inside area of the hull (pools behind rudder shaft, is wet 2. Knocking rudder noise
beneath master cabin seat and collects underneath master cabin floor boards) after heavy sailing. Does not
appear to emanate from the rudder area, but instead further aft. May be leaking from various fittings at bottom
of aft deck locker. Also, drain hole in aft deck locker to the transom appears to allow water to enter when
transom is buried, but a lip on the hole keeps it from fully draining out. Not sure if the seawater that collects
inside the hull leaks from aft deck locker or somewhere else.
Rudder control appears smooth and functions well. However, when turning STB on a STB tack, close hauled in 3. Install high-output Balmar 24v alternator
strong wind (i.e, 25K+), via autopilot or hand steering, turning the wheel to starboard results in a “clunking” noise
– only while the rudder is actually turning (it stops as soon as the rudder is no longer actively being turned). The
sound appears to emanate from below the hull in the rudder area and you can feel it at the wheel (very slightly)
and throughout the rudder control drive shaft. The rudder control appears to work fine, but there is something
making a pronounced noise under stress conditions. It only happens on STB tack, only when actually turning the
rudder to STB and only when sailing in strong winds and close-hauled. The sound is a little like a sound that
might occur if the blades on the folding prop were systematically bumping hard against the bumpers on the
prop. It is not a metallic noise, but more of a thumping-type/ratcheting noise.
Need more amps (replace existing 65a unit) to charge ~500ah 24v AGM battery bank. It appears that the 4. Log alternator belt sizes
Balmar 94-24-135-MGH model might be high enough amps and the right configuration to fit. Is there a higher
amp model that might make sense?
Need belt sizes and 2x spares for each belt on the main engine.5. Repair wiring damage in engine room
Repair/rewire and/or reroute wires running from engine room, through rudder control shaft cutout at aft bottom of 6. New regulator temp sensors @ batteries & alternators (?)
Test functionality of temp sensors; may be impacted by damaged wiring mentioned above. Need temp sensors 7. Replace 12V echo charge w/ Balmar Duo Charge (?)
on all alternators and batteries, connected to appropriate regulators.
Echo charge (located under aft starboard bunk in starting battery compartment) charges both 12v house battery 8. Replace old Balmar MC 624 24v regulator w/ new Balmar unit (?)
(300a AGM) and 12v starting battery (110a AGM). Regulator is a Balmar 612. Regulators are located under
nav station foot panel. Echo charge unit introduces a ~0.5v drop between house and starting battery. Maybe
this is okay, but I am concerned that the starting battery is not getting a proper charge, especially given that it is
an AGM battery. Is it okay or would a Balmar duo charge would service both batteries better?
Confirm that operation is okay for AGM batteries. Unit may be fine, but I’ve seen some intermittent problems 9. Determine cause of voltage & amperage cycling during charging (?)
(31v charging, and voltage ramping up and down in cycles during charging, for example). May be due to
damaged wiring as mentioned above, and/or maybe due to some other problem not related to the regulator
itself. Regulator located under nav station foot panel.
The 24v system cycles up and down a few volts and maybe 10 or more amps (complete cycle in a few minutes) 10. Starting battery for genset (?)
when running the genset and in bulk charge mode.
Genset alternator and regulator are disconnected as the output is a fixed ~14v, which is too high for the AGM 11. Battery hold-downs (?)
batteries. The genset runs off the 12v starting (or maybe house, I forget) battery, and thus slightly drains the
battery while the genset is running. Obviously, if the 12v charger is turned on while the genset is running, then
there is a net charge, not a net drain on the battery. Does it make sense to install a small starting battery (like a
personal watercraft-sized battery) just to start the genset and be charged by the genset alternator? Would still
want to be able to switch to main 12v starting or house battery to start genset as a backup in event of failure of
this small starting battery. Thoughts as to whether any of this is necessary?
Please inspect battery hold-downs (under port and starboard aft bunks). Do you feel the configuration is 12. Genset coolant & oil leaks
sufficient and if not, do you have an alternate configuration that you would recommend?
Unit leaks coolant and oil when operated for several hours at a time. Drips out of bottom of sound case.13. Unfreeze main genoa footblocks & service
Footblocks appear partially seized or at least are not operating smoothly. Am unable to pull pins. Can you pull 14. Replace selected spreaders (?)
apart and service? An alternative would be to replace the blocks with new footblocks. I do not believe that
these Lewmar units are available, but Harken has some new footblocks that might possibly fit reasonably well.
Spreaders may be damaged from wear due to wire halyards. Do any of them require replacement?15. Inspect/replace shrouds
Some shrouds may be damaged and require replacement. Please inspect and advise.16. Inspect/replace masthead sheaves
Some masthead sheaves may require replacement. Please inspect and advise.17. Replace halyards (?)
Quote to replace wire/rope halyards with appropriate all-line halyards. Inspect other existing all-line halyards for 18. Service turnbuckles
Inspect and lubricate all turnbuckles in rig.19. Install 2nd spinnaker halyard (?)
Quote to install a backup/secondary spinnaker halyard system (i.e., full system w/ cleat on mast, etc.).20. Tune rig (?)
Quote for this, if needed.21. Raise engine & genset coolant overflow tanks (?)
Both tanks seem too low to adequately apply fill pressure (engine in particular). Thoughts on this?22. Replace engine coolant overflow tank line
Line is wrong size and leaks at radiator cap.23. Finish oil change pump install
Rotate Grocco unit (mounted in engine room under manual bilge pump) 90 degrees so control switches are 24. Replace stopcock handles (?)
easily accessible on top of unit. Run tubing directly to oil pan drains for genset and main engine. Run power to
un-used 12v breaker on breaker panel at nav station (open to alternative suggestions regarding where to get
the power from).
Many of the handles throughout the boat are corroded. Quote for this, please.25. Chocks at stern
Need to better control aft running mooring lines when stern lines from each side are tied to a single mooring 26. Replace Genset Secondary Filter System
ball, for example. See evidence of chafe on teak toerail aft of stern cleats. Ideally chocks would come close to
matching look of existing deck hardware. Must be very securely mounted.
Replace with new Racor system. Existing system leaks through priming cap, even after seal replacement.27. Replace, Align and Tighten Bolt at Bottom of Mast Furler
Bolt at bottom of mast furler (inside mast) will not seat. It is a hex-head bolt, accessible through a small round 28. System to Secure Propane Tanks in Locker
hole immediately above the furling drive unit mounted on the mast.
Replace existing strap system with, perhaps, a single rod that runs for & aft, and when in place, secured to the 29. Additional Freshwater Plumbing for Heads, Deck Wash and Engine Room
locker walls, appropriately secures propane tanks.
Quote to provide valving and plumbing to conveniently allow switch-over between seawater and fresh water. 30. Repair Gelcoat Damage on Bow Near Water Line
When configured for freshwater, need to be able to fill as much of the head feed lines as possible (both fore and
aft heads). Also need same kind of set up for the deck wash system (“sea water pump”). Also, provide a spray-
head fresh water line in engine room for wash downs. Existing hoses to aft head need to be replaced due to
excessive growth. Flow from existing seawater pump seems too low.
Repair damage at bow near water line.31. Reconfigure jib car tracks so cars can go farther forward
Need to reconfigure the jib car tracks so the aft cars can be brought farther forward. When all the way forward, 32. Provide Qty 40 Sail Slides Sized for Second Track on Mast
the center pin on the aft jib car sheaves need to be 90cm back from the forward end of the tracks (measured
from inside the rubber end piece). This means that the control line cars will need to be even farther forward than
90cm back. Also need to upgrade car control lines to smaller diameter, strong line, and likely also longer given
that the cars will now be able to travel a greater distance.
33. Replace lens in Lewmar Hatches
Quote to replace lens in Lewmar hatches. Priority is the forward and salon hatches, but interested in replacing
all four hatch lenses.